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Recap guide

Recap the Atari Jaguar

We found no Jaguar guide with capacitor values. The board and supply use electrolytics, so it is likely worth a check, but treat it as unverified.

Open the interactive checklist Tick off each capacitor as you replace it. It saves in your browser.

Check first. A recap is not always the answer here, so look at the guides before you order parts.

Which board do I have?

Boards changed during production. These notes come from the linked sources, and many are only partly documented, so check the board in front of you.

  • K serial with ADC (early, 1993) (Low confidence). How to tell: Serial starts with K and the controller ports have an analog-to-digital converter; AtariAge says the model number sits under the case. Capacitors: An AtariAge poster mentions a couple of extra SMD caps on the back of an earlier unit; no list. Capacitor list differs from other revisions: not known. Source
  • K serial without ADC (later K builds) (Low confidence). How to tell: Serial starts with K but the ADC and analog support are gone, per ConsoleMods. Capacitors: No cap information. Capacitor list differs from other revisions: not known. Source
  • M serial (1993/94-1996) (Low confidence). How to tell: Serial starts with M, no ADC and earlier faults fixed. Capacitors: No cap information. Capacitor list differs from other revisions: not known. Source

Where to start

We did not find a clear list of what fails first on this machine, so we are not guessing. Read the guides below, check the board for leaks, and replace what you can see.

Tips, tales and maybes

Found in write-ups and forum threads. These are other people's reports, not tested by us. Check part references and values against your own board.

  • Tip: Dead or red-LED-only Jaguar (Low confidence). An AtariAge troubleshooting thread says to check about 9V at C34 (330uF) at the input and about 5V at C150 (2200uF) at the output, then REG 1 (LM78L05ACM), the reset signals and clock. It also says to clean the cartridge connector thoroughly, and that C150 can show leakage signs. Source
  • Watch out: No fuse on the regulators (Low confidence). A Jaguar repair log notes there is no fuse protecting the power regulators, so a wrong power supply can damage parts instantly. The author lifted three pads removing U38 and repaired them with Kynar wire, and later restored sound by replacing REG1. Source
  • Story: Quiet audio was not a fault (Low confidence). An owner with a quiet Jaguar found the caps looked flawless and was told Jaguar music is simply quiet and some games store a volume option. Someone reported replacing REG1 on theirs made no difference. Source
  • Story: No composite picture after replacing video caps (Low confidence). One PAL Jaguar had no RF or composite picture even though games loaded and audio played. Replacing caps in the composite video circuit and reflowing the cart slot and BIOS did not help, and the thread has no final fix. Source

Before you start

  • Boards changed during production. Check your board number against the guides before you order parts.
  • A mains power supply can hold a dangerous charge. If you are not trained to work on one, have a professional do it.

Guides we used

This page and the interactive bench are built from these. They have the photos and the full detail, so please read them and support their authors.

The capacitor list

We have not checked a capacitor list for this machine yet, so none is shown. Follow the guide above for your board, then add the capacitors in the interactive checklist and it builds a shopping list for you.

Skip the sourcing

While you are in there

Affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. These links only search by name. Disclosure

Steps, tools and safety

The steps, the tools in top, middle and budget picks, and the safety list are the same for every machine, so they live on one page: How to recap, step by step.

Values are shown as published in the guides above, and boards changed during production. Check the board in front of you. A recap involves hot tools and, on some machines, dangerous voltages. You do it at your own risk.

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